London bookstore

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Laura Sanderson Healy, freelance writer and former Londoner, contributes another fabulous post about a book shop in London.  Check out her previous bookstore adventures in London, Memphis, and Los Angeles.  Thank you Laura! 

John Sandoe [Books] Ltd. , the charming London bookshop at 10 Blacklands Terrace near Sloane Square in Chelsea, would delight any booklover on earth should they happen to blow in. A shopkeeper’s bell heralds arrivals at this tiny temple to literature; housed in low, 18th-century Regency buildings, its three stories are packed to the gunwales with texts of all kinds jammed ceiling to floor and up and down the creaky staircases.  The staff is always deep in conversation with patrons on the ground floor level while children paw through their favorites downstairs on the lower ground floor. It is the go-to bookseller for the talented likes of Manolo Blahnik and Elton John as well as the noisy herd of England’s finest scribblers, including Tom Stoppard.
It’s a tonic to visit John Sandoe, and to say its workers will bend over backwards (despite the cramped legroom) to help you find something is an understatement. Like the art shop Greene and Stone further down the King’s Road, they are one of the stockists for the English magazine Illustration and once when I asked how I might get earlier editions of the journal, a staffer at the bookstore picked up the phone and rang the editor Ruth Prickett directly. Within minutes, Prickett materialized before me (“as if by magic,” like in the Mr. Benn stories) with the copies I desired and we soon were looking at books together (graphic novel editions of the parts of Proust’s In Search of Lost Time) and discussing the Peter Blake’s pop art heritage. According to the Illustration website, “This new magazine was first conceived through a chance conversation in a bookshop in February 2004.” These things happen at John Sandoe.
When I went to collect a Folger Library exhibition catalogue of George Romney’s Shakespearean drawings my father had ordered at John Sandoe on his last visit to London in 1999, I enjoyed the quizzical response from the staff member ringing up my other purchases that day: “Elizabeth Kubler-Ross (On Death and Dying)Ant and Bee (a children’s series), (Theatre de Complicite’s)  The Three Lives of Lucie Cabrol – well, that’s an eclectic mix.” I recently left the shop with palm-sized Quince Tree Press pocket books – Lawrence Sterne, The Rossettis, Thomas Bewick,  William Cobbett – as well as the newly-published Behind Closed Doors: The Tragic, Untold Story of The Duchess of Windsor by Hugo Vickers, which had been recommended to me by a friend who still lives in London and follows these social striations.
On John Sandoe Books’ website is its quarterly catalogues as well as its own reviews of books, favorite subjects including letters, gardens, outdoor life, travel, diaries, psychology, and crime.  Under “We recommend” is the statement: “Every day people ask us what they should be reading. Whilst our opinions about individual books might differ, we all share an enthusiasm for reading and what little spare time we have is taken up with this most rewarding of activities …The books are varied in style and subject, but each is excellent in its way. We don’t expect them all to appeal, but the list reflects the wide range of interest that we have in the shop. And that’s why there are no business or sport books.” Every Christmas John Sandoe Books publishes a story after a competition amongst its regulars.
John Sandoe [Books] Ltd 
10 Blacklands Terrace, Chelsea, London SW3 2SR
Tel: 020 7589 9473
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Guest Post from Josh Stephens

Josh Stephens is the editor of the California Planning & Development Report, a newsletter covering urban planning and land use. When he is not writing, he is a college counselor and freelance journalist. And when he’s not maintaining journalistic and academic objectivity, he enjoys places designed for humans rather than for unbridled commerce.  Josh is assisting my son with his college essays and I have to say we learned more from him in an hour than we gathered from several college tours and talks and time with our own college counselor.  Love the store he describes and how much it means to him.  He also has an understanding of the independent bookstore world, check out his book review of Big Box Swindle.

Primrose Hill Books

Some years back I was corresponding with a wonderfully erudite woman named Eleanor. After braving a bedrizzled crossing of Regent’s Park I arrived at my friend’s flat and composed an email to her:

“Speaking of bookstores, I made a delightful find today: Primrose Hill Book Shop.  The whole store is about the size of a dining+living room, but somehow every book seemed worth buying.  I told the owner that she had a better selection than Barnes and Noble, and I meant it. It made me wonder why people are so eager to suffer those enormous stores when every neighborhood could instead have its own little Primrose Books replete with carefully chosen titles.”

While I took Eleanor on her first virtual visit to Primrose Hill through e-mail, mine own first visit had taken place years ago, when most reading still involved books and not computer screens. At age 10 I knew it as the place from which Pongo, Missis Pongo, and their 15 puppies disappeared—and to which they returned with 84 more. At that age I don’t think I considered whether Dodie Smith had set her story in real place or not.

But on that July afternoon, I found a little high street that, true to its name, overlooks Regent’s Park from a modest rise. It was exactly the sort of a place where mother or father might stroll, pushing a pram with one hand and restraining a full-of-beans firehouse dog with the other.

In the middle of this happy scene sits the blue and white face of Primrose Hill Books.

Orderly without being stuffy, and small without being cramped, Primrose Hill Books strikes an expert balance between endearing and twee, erudite and snobbish. For me, it confirmed London as a place of understatement and refinement. And, as I told Eleanor, its restraint—by not trying to be all things to all customers—reminded me that a small selection, chosen by people who care, surpasses any arrangement in which mere commercial pwroducts, printed and bound so they look like books, are allowed to overwhelm works of art and genius.

I cannot recall whether I saw The One Hundred and One Dalmatians among its titles. But I’m sure it was there somewhere, waiting for a nice family to come by and add it to their collection.

Primrose Hill Books

134 Regent’s Park Rd.

London NW 18XL

Tel:  020 7586 2022

 

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It’s easy to feel literary wandering around Bloomsbury, this is the area rooted in Virginia Woolf, E.M. Forster and their literary group actually named Bloomsbury.  If that isn’t enough, the British Museum and the University of London anchor the intellectual life.  Little bookstores pop up in unexpected places (see previous reviews London Review Bookshop and Bookmarks), two caught my attention:  Gosh! and Oxfam Bloomsbury Bookshop.

Gosh!

I’m not a comic book reader and don’t think I’ll ever evolve into a fan of graphic novels, but I know a good niche bookstore when I see one.  Gosh! was packed with people of all ages pouring over everything from mangas to graphic novels to collectible comic books.  The store opens into a room dedicated to current graphic novels, I was tempted by the classics in graphic novel form, but then wondered if reading one would be akin to reading the classics in the ‘young readers’ version, essentially killing the story.  Gosh! then meanders back into multi-story smaller rooms.  The collectible section was impressive, well organized and easy for find all those ancient Peanuts and Batman comic books.  If you love graphic novels, manga or comic books, this is your mecca.  My favorite aspect was the sign out front, simply the Batman insigna.  After seeing hundreds of old pub signs with illustrations from the days when people couldn’t read, I enjoyed this updated version.

Oxfam Bloomsbury Bookshop

All over England I noticed charity stores, in one city in Wales I counted three charity stores on one block.  However, I never saw huge block buildings dedicated to public storage.  I wonder if the two observations are linked.  In Bloomsbury, Oxfam opened a version of charity store, but dedicated solely to books.  Personally, I’ve only visited one such store in the US, Housing Works in NYC which gives all of its proceeds to AIDS work.  I would love to find more, not just sections of Goodwill for bookshelves, but entire used bookstores for charity.  Anyway, off my soap box, the Oxfam store had a wonderful selection of books.  My favorite was a section dedicated to the commuter, books or literary magazines that could be read in sections during a single commute.  There was a whole shelf dedicated to used Granta magazines at a fraction of the cost.  In addition to books the store offers notes/stationary/writing supplies produced by Oxfam.  What better way to buy a used book than to support a charity that fights poverty and injustice?

Gosh!

39 Great Russell St.

London WC1B 3NZ

T:  020-7636-1011

Oxfam Bloomsbury Bookshop

12 Bloomsbury St.

London WC1B 3QA

T:  0207-637-4610

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Race and Britian

As I approached Bookmarks Bookshop, a woman greeted me on the sidewalk and invited me to attend an author discussion.  Knowing it was a socialist bookstore, I was intrigued, there aren’t a lot of socialist discussions in Los Angeles.  The author was Onyeka, a law lecturer and historian who writes novels about the black British experience.  I have heard black Americans talk about the difference between being a black person in England and one in the United States, that they didn’t feel the taint of racism abroad that they do at times at home.  My sense was that Britain was an example of how we as American could improve in our race relations.  Onyeka’s take on the black British experience was completely new to me.

Onyeka described himself as a third generation British citizen who was still treated as a foreigner because of his skin color.  The term ‘foreigner’ struck me, for all of our race issues, I don’t think black Americans are thought of as foreigners.  Onyeka’s grandfather was of the generation who came from Africa to fight for the UK during World War II and were intensely patriotic and religious.  Two generations later, Onyeka feels his complexion branded him as an outsider, one of the fallen, potentially a terrorist, and definitely foreign.  Where his grandfather proudly displayed the Union Jack, Onyeka’s community displayed pictures of Malcolm X or the Black Panthers.  He described his novels (The Trilogy:  Waiting to Explode – How to Survive, The Black Prince – Leopards in the Temple, and The Phoenix – Misrule in the Land of Nod) as capturing a brief moment in time in 1980s.  A decade that Onyeka concluded was the worst for blacks:  Michael Jackson was the highest payed black man and he changed his nose and lightened his skin color, more black men were marrying white women, and the political culture shifted to the right.  Onyeka wrote concurrently to the events and hoped to capture an ethos that faded by the 1990s and was gone by 2000.

I don’t have any knowledge to evaluate the veracity of Onyeka’s statements and I don’t think I need to, the value in the talk was hearing the views of someone in a world completely different from mine.  I’m reminded that it is exactly that experience that independent bookstores provide, they open the window to worlds I’d never otherwise experience.

To the Left

The author talk reflected the diverse viewpoints of the stock of books.  The selection and categories of books at Bookmarks are unique.  The store devotes entire shelves to the ‘Black Struggle,’ ‘Fighting Racism,’ ‘War & Imperialism – Middle East,’ ‘Marx & Marxism.’  It was a bit like walking into a Soviet bookstore with numerous options involving Trotsky, Marx, and Lenin.  As a former Soviet Studies major (yes, I’m old enough that the title of one of my majors is a country that no longer exists), it felt like re-visiting my college curriculum.  Being a socialist bookstore, many of the books advocated a viewpoint far different from mainstream thought.  It can be a bit startling, but a intriguing at the same time.  If you’re in Bloomsbury, peek in, who knows what you’ll learn.

Bookmarks Bookshop

1 Bloomsbury St

London, WC1B 3QE

England

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I kissed my family goodbye and sent them around the corner to the British Museum armed with a scavenger hunt to keep them busy and slipped in to the London Review Bookshop.  It was blissfully quiet.  Attached was a cake shop (rather than coffee, a reminder I was in England) where all I heard was the occasional rattle of a spoon.  I started the day at Westminster Abbey with hordes of people walking over the graves of unknown famous people; the din was headache inducing.  Next stop was Top Shop with my daughter.  After two hours of shopping with scads of people and booming music, I met my husband at the entrance and practically burst into tears.  I felt the silence of the bookshop envelope me and start to restore my equilibrium.

Here’s the thing I discovered about English bookstores, they are as silent as libraries.  The booksellers don’t chat you up.  They’re friendly and ready to help when asked, but they won’t find you in the aisle and start a conversation.  The patrons also don’t talk to each other, even the ones who know each other.  One evening on ‘the telly’ we watched a comedy show and the skit was about making noise in a bookstore.  The audience was laughing, but we didn’t get the joke.  In the States, the primary purpose of an independent bookstore is to match the perfect book with every customer, most of which is accomplished via conversation.  While I assume the British booksellers have the same goal, it doesn’t seem to be achieved through conversation.

As the name indicates, the bookstore is the retail outlet for the London Review of Books.  Of course all of the books reviewed are available, along with additional books recommended by the (silent) bookseller, plus many more.  I love this store.  The literary fiction is fairly high brow.  The most noticeable American presence was a large selection of books published by NYTRB.  It was a little disconcerting to walk into the fiction section and find so many unfamiliar books.  I asked the bookseller if there was a British novel that he felt flew under the American radar.  He immediately walked over to Remainder by Tom McCarthy.  Reading the synopsis on the back cover, about a man who lost his memory and uses a large settlement to recreate snatches of visions, intrigued me.  I bought it but decided not to read it on the plane.  It feels like a book that has an edge, maybe a bit of a creep factor, and I have enough flying issues.

The selection of non-fiction was outstanding.  I keep hearing that non-fiction sells better than fiction.  While not disputing that fact, the set up of many bookstores seems to emphasize fiction.  Not so at London Review Bookshop.  Here the numerous shelves of current affairs, history and political book shelves are upfront, the first one a visitor encounters.  Upstairs, the space dedicated to plays, poetry, literary criticism, and essays far outstrips most stores I’ve visited.  I recommend clicking over to the website to peruse the various topics.  Even better, check out the Reading Guides on a variety of topics, one is even entitled Quiet, Please!

London Review Bookshop

14 Bury Place

London, WC1A 2JL

Tel:  020 7269 9030

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