September 2010

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I was walking back toward the car when something about Hay-on-Wye Booksellers caught my eye, it may have been the sunny white door and windows, causing me to veer in even though I was short on time.   The store is a rabbit warren of rooms and passages on at least two floors (maybe more, I was mindlessly meandering).  With books stacked everywhere, I was curious what was around every corner and happily lost within this literary maze.  In fact, more than once I wondered if I had wandered into a different store, but there was an energizer bunny of employee that was constantly bustling from one section to another with stacks of books in her arms.  I figured I’d use her as the proverbial crumbs to lead me out to the street again.

One large room was full of art books, logical since art is one of the store’s stated areas of specialty (along with design, architecture, history, military, theology and nature).  I think every book Phadion ever published was represented, so many that when I walked past the Phadion store in London I didn’t go in, I felt like I’d seen its entire publishing history.  I found old exhibition catalogues for a fraction of the cost of what I’m paying now, there seemed to be some real art book deals in addition to great variety.

Upstairs I found stacks books of essays and letters and felt like I tripped over the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.  What better to read traveling through England than the essays of Charles Lamb?  The books weren’t arranged in any sort of alphabetical order, so I sat down and worked through the piles winnowing out four different versions of his essays.  I ended up with a 1921 Collins’ Clear-Type Press edition of The Essays of Elia with original engravings.  It’s the engravings that attracted me, Lamb lived in a Read the rest of this entry »

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The underlying question for this erratic series on museum bookstores is whether or not the store is worth visiting independent of the museum.  Anyone who has ever walked into the Met’s bookstore knows there isn’t any suspense, it is the Queen of Museum Bookstores and always worthy of a special trip to visit.  The sheer size of the store would woo any art lover, it is significantly larger than most museums’ combined concession areas (bookstore, gift store, pop up stands, etc.).

Having spent the day at the Museum seeing the French paintings I read about earlier in the summer, I failed to leave enough time to explore the store.  I was proverbial kid in a candy store, everywhere I turned there were books I wanted to sample and buy. The book tables were organized geographically (this seems to be a trend in NYC, both McNally Jackson and Idlewild are similar) which was perfect for me.  I could find books about Realism, Orientalism and Impressionism, trends all were present in late 19th century French art, in one place.

Further in the store, I discovered sections devoted to each of the Museum departments, along with separate sections for reference, instructional and the usual artist monographs (here comprising a long wall of offerings).  I spent time in the criticism section and came away with two books:  The Painted Word by Tom Wolfe and Art and Culture:  Critical Essays by Clement Greenberg.  Greenberg was a proponent of abstract art and hugely influential in the emergence of 20th century American Art.  Wolfe isn’t so enamored with modern art or Greenberg, so I’m looking forward to an interesting dialogue between the books.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art publishes enough books to keep an art lover busy for a lifetime.  These books are displayed on several dedicated shelves in the store.  I momentarily dreamed of following the example of the kids in From the Mixed-Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler, E.L. Konigsburg, hiding in the museum and working my way methodically through the books and the holdings.  [As an aside, when my kids were younger, I read The Mixed-Up Files to them and made a list of the art mentioned in the book.  With that list, I designed my own tour for the kids at the Met.  It was the perfect way to introduce them to the collection without completely overwhelming all of us.]

My one disappointment with the store is that there isn’t a bookseller, or at least I didn’t notice anyone who could talk to me about books.  I’ve experienced this with all of the museum bookstores I’ve visited.  There are lovely cashiers, but not a resident bookseller who can guide me to the next great art history book that I would love.  In other bookstores, I can walk in and say I loved The Children’s Book by A.S. Byatt (which I did), what do you recommend I read next?  I greatly miss that interaction.

Metropolitan Museum of Art

1000 5th Avenue at 82nd Street

New York, New York  10028-0198

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Photograph by Anders Bell

Since Richard Booth re-invented Hay-on-Wye as a Book Town, I decided to start exploring at his store .  As an American, Richard Booth’s Bookshop felt quintessentially English to me.  The wooden floors are well-worn and creaky, the overstuffed chairs and couches scattered throughout beg to be curled up in with a book, and there is even a cat lording over the place.

I started in the history section.  When I lived in London a couple of decades ago, I noticed that the English take on world news was different than the news in the United States.  A similar shift was evident to me in the history section.  There was a greater emphasis and variety on European matters than the standard American bookstore.  As a former Soviet Studies major, I found the the Russian/Soviet section far larger than anything I’ve seen outside a college bookstore in the US.  The World War II section was huge and contained fascinating books on niche topics, more European in emphasis, less on the Pacific.

Half of the top floor contained literature, beautifully worn volumes of every author I could think of, some books looked well loved and others like new.  The prices weren’t exactly competitive. I saw a paperback for £9.99 with is over $15, not a deal for a used book.  Almost a quarter of the top floor held books dedicated to Christianity and spirituality.  We spent the previous two days wandering around the ruins of Glastonbury Abbey and Tintern Abbey, testaments to the brutal repression of Catholicism over 400 years ago, so I particularly noted the shelves and shelves of books relating to Catholicism.  So much for stamping out a religion. Reflecting how society has separated science and faith, the other side of the store has walls of books relating to all branches of science and computer technology.

The basement floor is enjoyably creepy.  It has a low roof, I could hear the creaking wood from customers walking above, and there was an overwhelming musty smell.  Appropriately, located here are mystery books, historical fiction and science fiction.  It’s perfect.

As I left the store, I stopped in the front section which contained Folio Books.  (I discovered many stores in Hay-on-Wye had a collection of Folio Books in the front section.)  I hadn’t ever seen them before and discovered they are beautifully bound and illustrated books that have individual slipcover boxes.  I’m very intrigued and will be looking into them in the future.

Richard Booth’s Bookshop

44 Lion St.

Hay-on-Wye, Hereford HR3 5AA

T:  +44 01497 820322

F:  +44 01497 821150

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A village on the border of Wales and England for over a millennium, Hay-on-Wye reinvented itself in the 1960s as the “Town of Books.”  In 1963, this market town was dying, sure for the morgue when it lost its train stop in 1963.  Richard Booth opened a used bookstore in 1962 and discovered there was money to made in used books.  He bought books en masse, from estate sales and private libraries, and started filling the empty store fronts.   In 1977, he bought the town castle, declared himself King and his horse Prime Minister.

Now, Hay-on-Wye has over than 30 used bookstores and more books per square mile than anywhere else.  The Guardian hosts a 10 day literary festival every June that is attended by thousands.  Booth’s vision grew into quite a literary kingdom.

I learned about Hay-on-Wye from The Best of Britain’s Countryside:  The Heart of England and Wales by Bill and Gwen North, a driving and walking itinerary.  I bought the book 20 years ago, it’s out of print, but found the directions remained accurate.  We approached Hay from a single track road after surmounting the “Gospel Pass.”  What’s a single track road?  Picture a two-way road about the width of a sidewalk, closed on both sides by high hawthorn hedges with occasional pull outs for when you come upon a driver heading the opposite direction.  Imagine my husband driving a stick shirt with his left hand navigating the roads and the pull outs (he did great).  We reached the top of the summit for an incredible view of the Black Mountains.  There is a reason it’s called Gospel Pass, it is steep for Wales, but not so much for Westerners used to the Sierra Nevadas and the Rockies.

After the beautiful and challenging road trip, we were all happy to pull into Hay, eat lunch, and split up for our own personal bookstore excursions.  What we found will be the subject of future posts.

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If I could pick anywhere in the world to be on September 12th, I’d choose the Brooklyn Book Festival.  In the Brooklyn area next weekend?  You have to go!

Who would I want to see?  Paul Hardin, Paul Krugman and Sam Lipsyte top a long list.  A weekend of events and several independent bookstores in the area, it sounds like paradise.

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